Ormond Castle, now hidden in a public park in Carrick-on-Suir, is reputed to be the best preserved Elizabethan manor house in Ireland; in fact, there are not many buildings from the Tudor period as intact as this one. Slightly hidden from view (you have to know where to go, essentially, or trust the signs), it’s the main tourist attraction in the area, and also a major County Tipperary site.
A brief history of Ormond Castle
Ormond Castle, as seen today, was built by Thomas, 10th Earl of Ormond, around 1560. However, an older building was used as the basis: the walled wall from the middle of the 15th century can still be identified, complete with corner towers. But Thomas completely changed the character of the castle, losing most of the defensive structures and creating an imposing family home. Thus, Ormond Castle is Ireland’s only significant unfortified dwelling from the Tudor period that still exists. The original castle was established sometime before 1315, when it fell to the Butler Family, later known as the Earls of Ormond.
Around 250 years later, Earl Thomas spent a few years (and a small fortune) at the court of his cousin, Queen Elizabeth I, who were related through the family of his mother, the beheaded Anne Boleyn. Inspired by “typically English” Elizabethan architecture, he proceeded to add an imposing Tudor manor house to the utilitarian old castle of Ormond. Avantgarde at the time – In fact, Thomas’s impressive project was the first Tudor manor house in all of Ireland.
Although the house was a favorite residence of James Butler, the ‘Grand Duke’, in the 17th century, the family left and left Ormond Castle after his death (1688). And while it remained in the possession of the Stewards, it was allowed to decompose and even partially crumble. Finally, in 1947, Ormond Castle was handed over to the Irish state. Later a (partial) restoration began.
Ormond Castle today
Visiting Ormond Castle is a two-step experience: you can enter the grounds and the exhibition, but you will have to join a tour (approximately 45 minutes) to see the state rooms. Depending on your interest in the Tudor period, in architecture or in the television show “The Tudors” (parts of which were filmed here), you can choose.
A walk in the courtyard and around the house will give a good impression of Elizabethan architecture and discover interesting little details. Look out for the porch oriel windows in the center of the facade and the fine mullioned windows on both floors. During the summer, you will have to watch swallows that fly through some doors with the determination of the kamikaze pilots. Prepare for near failures.
The exhibition of the letters is very interesting, some very good examples are on view. Unfortunately with too little light to protect them from excessive UV exposure (wait a few minutes for your night vision to kick in). Here the state could do more… when we visited one of the splendid wax seals on the letters it was melting, to allow the loss of such treasures to appear extremely careless and insensitive.
More attention is paid to the state rooms, arguably the highlight of Ormond Castle with some of the best decorative plaster work in Ireland. Commendable restoration work has been done in the Long Gallery on the first floor where the ceiling had collapsed during centuries of neglect. Once hung with rich (and warm) tapestries, this room now seems a bit empty. But it still has a beautiful limestone fireplace (dated 1565). There is also a stucco portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, flanked by allegorical figures of fairness and justice.
This was included in honor of Thomas Butler’s cousin, the Queen, and to prepare for her promised visit (which, by the way, was never fulfilled).
Ormond Castle – Is it worth a visit?
Definitely yes, if you are in the vicinity and worth a bit of travel if you want to see virtually unspoiled Tudor architecture. It may not be the most impressive castle in Ireland, but it was groundbreaking architecture at the time and is one of a kind today. If you are heading to Tipperary for the Rock of Cashel, be sure to visit Ormond Castle as well.
